Henry Zankov’s Alt-rock Ode Strikes a High Note for Spring 2025

An invitation reminder was eblasted before Henry Zankov’s presentation Monday on the pickleball court at Reseve-Padel, projecting clear and sunny skies. “Hat and sunglasses recommended,” it read. Thankfully many forgot theirs, allowing them an excuse to try out the groovy acetate frames he’s launching in collaboration with Selima Optique. 

One shaggy-haired model sporting a white circular pair was a dead ringer for Kurt Cobain. Dressed in an open-weave vest and chenille velvet towel skirt with red and white stripes, he exuded the kind of ‘90s grunge-vibe that’s been on Zankov’s playlist lately. 

But Cobain wasn’t the genesis for the collection — Kim Gordon, lead bassist for Sonic Youth, was. “I went to see her in May and it brought back all of these memories of me in high school and college, listening to alternative rock bands,” shared the designer, who hails from Saint Petersburg, Russia. “They were my introduction to American culture.”

They were his introduction to American style, too, which played out here in an uptempo mix of preppy and punk with undertones of coastal cool. Sportif polos, cardigans and thread-embroidered men’s shirts were all worn with flip-flops and the piece to covet this season: wrinkled iridescent board shorts slung low on the hip. 

The interplay of matte and shine was key to upping the glam factor, especially for knits. Zankov worked sequins into squares, layering them atop engineered grid patterns to trippy-effect on some of his hems. Another cool technique was lambswool with pointelle stitches mimicking the feel-good fuzz of vintage socks.  

Zankov excited the eye with a trio of violet, peridot and cacao (his names) moshed together in a standout zebra-print sweater look. A duo of satsuma orange and cherry red was equally mood-lifting in a raglan-sleeve vichy gingham swing coat. Pointing to an image of it on his board, he joked: “This is neutral for me.”

Like Cobain and Gordon did with music, Zankov encourages a bit of rebel-rousing, only with fashion. “The styling is eclectic,” he explained. “You have pieces that are clashing in this wardrobe that you take apart and bring back together in different ways.”

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