The Olympics continued at New York Fashion Week this week – and we don’t just mean fashion people running in between shows. We saw Team USA gold medalist Jordan Chiles on the Kim Shui runway, track and field gold medalist (and Dazed cover star) Noah Lyles on the Willy Chavarria runway, and their teammates Suni Lee and Gabby Thomas in the front row at Tommy Hilfiger. And, as fashion and sport continue to merge, some designers have earned their own hypothetical medals this season. From Off-Whites Brooklyn Bridge Park debut and Area’s ten-year anniversary show partnering with Tinder to promote (and donate to) the national abortion rights campaign Bans Off Our Bodies, to Rihanna making a rare NYFW appearance for Alaïa’s first show in New York since 1982 and Wu-Tang Clan performing on Tommy Hilfiger’s boat-turned-runway, this year was one for the books.
People may have declared NYFW “dead” over the past couple of years but this year you could hesitantly whisper “New York Fashion Week is back, baby” and it would be (mostly) true. Sure, there were some understated moments, but they were far outnumbered by moments of craftmanship and spectacle. Before New York passes on the proverbial baton to London, we rounded up the best moments from NYFW, from Laquan Smith and Kim Shui, to Who Decides War and Diotima.
Queens-born designer LaQuan Smith has proven time again that he knows how to put on an effortlessly chic (and demure, even) show and this year was no exception. Under the theme of “animalistic glamour”, Smith sent models like Winnie Harlow and Taylor Hill down the runway in brown fur jackets, sheer leather trenchcoats, snake print sets, fitted military-style jackets, sequined bodysuits, and bright yellow chiffon dresses. The result was a vibrant, safari-themed show that never ventured into the terriroty of feeling like a Steve Irwin costume (RIP).
Everyone in New York knows that Kim Shui is for girls who like to go out. The certified baddie-approved designer – a favourite of Tinashe, Caresha Brownlee, and Bia – delivered another extremely wearable collection on Saturday, September 7. Inspired by the ancient Japanese art of Kintsugi (the art of repairing broken pottery with gold resin), the SS25 collection explored strength and fragility and positioned the Kim Shui woman as a symbol of transformation and adaptability. On the runway, there were blue and white porcelain-like fabric fragments pieced together with white lace, earthy prints and fleshy textures inspired by Joan Fontcuberta’s Kintsugi book, and floral motifs that commonly appear on oriental ceramics are brought to life with the use of moulded and electroplated materials. Some of the highlights included the first-ever Kim Shui boys walking the runway, the models all rocking going-out dresses with Nike sneakers, and Jordan Chiles closing out the show.
To celebrate its ten-year anniversary, Area delved deep into themes of identity and self-expression. There were references to nameplates, fingerprints, and hands throughout the show, all tied together with a partnership with Tinder and a joint commitment to reproductive health and rights. Their collaborative ‘Bans Off Our Bodies’ t-shirt aims to draw attention to the tens of millions of Americans who face bans on the care they need amid the upcoming election. “We’re using fashion as a powerful vehicle to amplify this crucial message at New York Fashion Week, standing up for this fundamental right that directly shapes our futures, our relationships, and the way we date,” Tinder CMO Melissa Hobley said in a press release from Area. And, while the message was timely and poignant, each piece also stood as an interesting exploration on its own: sculptural couture dresses created from thousands of layered cutout hands and brass-embellished micro-shorts styled with black leather hats or solid silver eyewear.
Don’t confuse Who Decides War’s SS25 collection title ‘X’ to be about the social media platform formally known as Twitter. The brand founders and designers, Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore, have been redefining Americana through the lens of Black Americans since 2018, and this year, they set their sights on the Victorian era. Who Decides War’s own fantastical take on Western garment construction combined heritage Americana fabrics: cotton, linen, terry, denim, leather, and lace. It also included sneak peeks of upcoming collaborations with Jordan Brand and Pelle Pelle, as well as original runway music by Cash Cobain.
Who else but Collina Strada would choose a cemetery as their NYFW runway? The quirky, vegetable-pilled designer Hillary Taymour took this season as an opportunity to reconnect with the things that ground us. “In the intensity of this global election year, I found myself yearning to reconnect with the essentials,” Taymour said in a press release from the brand. “It’s a reminder to escape the distractions sprouting from our phones and reconnect with what really matters.” In other words, Taymour was sending out a strong message for the American public to go and touch some grass. She did this by sending a series of cartwheeling models with grass-stained extensions down the runway with floppy hats, fluttering sleeves, and even lawnmowers. The Green Lady of Brooklyn even walked the runway carrying a lizard bag, and everyone in attendance left the ominous cemetery setting with a smile.
On Monday, September 9, 2023 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund runner-up Rachel Scott brought New Yorkers to a sunny loft on Elizabeth Street for her SS25 presentation. Under the dim light of a cluster of red candles, she showcased her next range of meticulously crafted knits. There were body-hugging dresses, sheer maroon skirts, draped woven details, and (of course) her now-signature macramé and fringe dresses – beaded detailing sparkling under the setting New York sun.
On Sunday (September 6), Dazed editor-in-chief and Off-White’s new creative director Ib Kamara showcased his version of the brand at what was one of the most highly anticipated shows of the season. Taking over Pier 2 of the Brooklyn Bridge Park, the collection Duty-Free connected “African roots with American dreams”. Honouring the autobiographical identity of Kamara, the brand’s first-ever NYFW show paid homage to Off-White’s roots while signalling a new future for the brand under his vision. It also marked the beginning of a series of more New York-centric actions, bringing icons like Mary J Blige, Flavor Flav and Victoria Monet to the front row to celebrate the next chapter.
