A ‘Hidden Gem’ Inn in Upstate New York Still Exists — Read Our Editor’s Review

Some cliches, it turns out, still hold a kernel of truth. So when I arrived at Deer Mountain Inn, the luxury lodge in Tannersville, New York, on a spring afternoon, I laughed when a staffer told me, “We’re just a hidden gem up here.”

You see, the idea of an undiscovered hidden gem tucked away on a secluded mountainside has become a bit of travel-writing patter, a say-nothing turn of phrase that’s been so overused that it has lost all meaning.

And yet, the Deer Mountain Inn really is something singular. That’s partly thanks to the rich heritage of this Catskills property, which traces its history back to the 1880s. These days, the Royce family owns the hotel — they also own Rhode Island’s inimitable Ocean House — who have recently added to their six-room Catskills inn a collection of four stand-alone cabins that feel like private woodland homes.

Then there’s the over-the-top design of the place, a rebuke to the idea that the only good hotel is one that looks as clean-lined as a Scandinavian train station. On the contrary. Deer Mountain Inn proves that maximalism still plays, with an over-the-top look courtesy of interior designer Iliana Moore, whose vision “takes inspiration from Craftsman-style antique furnishings and William Morris textiles, creating a warm and inviting ambiance,” as she puts it.

My duplex cabin for a weekend stay this spring was certainly heavy on the vibes, with a wood-paneled living space stuffed to the first-floor ceiling with original antique artwork and other decor, including antlers, with window treatments made from up-cycled Pendleton blankets and Adirondack-inspired, rustic-log balusters and furnishings. The look echoes the incredible interiors of the main lodge building, which spans three floors and is similarly filled with treasures.

“It’s my demented fantasy,” Moore told me one morning as she showed me around the building, pointing out chestnut paneling, an Egyptian lamp, and a console table hewn from a wrought-iron gate she uncovered in Buenos Aires. “It’s a little treasure hunt for the guests,” she said, describing the many one-of-a-kind pieces that flavor the inn.

The lodge also benefits from the cooking of Chef Corwin Kave, who helms the kitchen at Deer Mountain Inn. The dining room, which goes by the same name, is open to guests and the general public, with a full bar room and a series of intimate dining rooms on the lodge’s first floor. The ambitious menu options on my visit included steelhead trout with sunflower curry, cavatelli with ramps foraged on the property, and tempura soft-shell crab. I was particularly taken by a delightful bundle of roasted asparagus, topped with trout roe and crème fraîche, and a transcendent hunk of crusty sourdough, flecked with salt and served with a dish of house-cultured butter topped with za’atar. In other words, the dining was as distinctive and delightful as the design.

For all the exuberance, Deer Mountain Inn felt calm, with plenty of reading nooks, hiking trails, and peaceful hideaways. One evening, the staff arranged sundowner cocktails at one of two rustic lean-tos on the property, a spot with a sweeping view of the mountains and a roaring campfire. The jaw-dropping charcuterie board they prepped would’ve been plenty, but the team remembered the bug spray and even offered an Instax camera for some lo-fi selfies. Some things never go out of style.

Here’s my review of Deer Mountain Inn, the distinctive Catskills lodge in Tannersville, New York, an ideal year-round escape for anyone seeking a dose of nature.

The Rooms

Deer Mountain Inn has just six rooms in the main lodge building and four private cabins. As befits a historic building, each of the six guest rooms is unique, with features such as stone fireplaces, rich textiles, and antique furnishings. Added in 2023 are four cabins, three of them identical, with a fourth built specifically to be accessible (see more on that below).

I stayed in No. 3, named for Grace Gallatin Seton, the author and suffragette, while others are named Burroughs, Dodge, and Dresser. My cabin spanned two levels: a sitting area, wet bar, bathroom, outdoor deck (with gas fire pit) downstairs, and a sleeping loft with a writing desk upstairs. The decor is tastefully distinctive, though the bathroom is a contemporary reprieve with marble, tile, and stone. Some guests might find the cabin too dimly lit, though I thought it was appropriately moody.

Food and Drink

My meals at Deer Mountain Inn were fantastic, with fabulous food, terrific service, and a wide range of cocktail, beer, and wine choices (with non-alcoholic options available), all offered in the elegant first-floor dining room and main lodge’s bar.

Dinner service, including house sourdough and a menu heavy on locally sourced and foraged ingredients, was a particular highlight. How local? On the night I visited, some oysters plucked from the waters near Deer Mountain Inn’s sibling property in Rhode Island were offered, topped with pickled spruce tips from the Catskills. The extensive wine list, which won a Wine Spectator award in 2023, runs for nearly 60 pages and features numerous rarities and “producer spotlights,” with multiple labels from a single vintner. Continental breakfast at the inn is included in the rate and is artfully presented with bagels, spreads, fruits, and other buffet-style options.

Activities and Amenities

Deer Mountain Inn feels like its own world, with a network of hiking trails across the property, a spacious deck, fire pits, gardens, and a third-floor sitting room outfitted with a huge TV (for movie screenings or live sports), a vintage pool table, an honor bar, and a library. Individual cabins have well-provisioned minibars as well. Two rustic lean-tos with sweeping mountain vistas are worth the short uphill hike (or, upon request, ride), particularly around sunset. One thing you won’t find is a swimming pool — though there are several natural ponds and waterfalls within a short driving distance.

Family-friendly Offerings

I didn’t see any kids during my short stay, but younger guests are welcome, says the property’s events director, Maureen Tussing. “We are family-friendly and have many games and books available for children in our attic lounge,” she explained. “We also often set up s’mores for families to enjoy after dinner. Our front lawn is a great place for lawn games and to run around.”

Accessibility and Sustainability

One of the four new cabins at Deer Mountain Inn is fully ADA compliant, built across one floor rather than two, as is the case for the other three cabins. “The main lodge does have stairs and is unfortunately less accessible as it was built in the 1880s,” Tussing told Travel + Leisure. Deer Mountain Inn does have on its website 3D tours of the cabins, including the ADA-compliant Burroughs cabin, which can help travelers identify accessibility features (or obstacles) that may be of interest.

Location

The lodge is located about 125 miles north of New York City, at nearly 2,500 feet. It’s close to year-round attractions, including Hunter Mountain and Kaaterskill Falls, numerous state-managed wilderness areas, and towns such as Kingston, Saugerties, and Woodstock. A car is essential for getting around this stretch of New York.

How to Get the Most Value Out of Your Stay

Deer Mountain Inn is an independent hotel, so it’s not part of a major points program. (It is possible to reserve at the restaurant through Resy.) Room reservations open 90 days out; generally, mid-week stays are more affordable than in-demand weekends.