Alaïa, Khaite, and Proenza Schouler Rejuvenate NYFW, According to Retailers

Like students returning to campus after being energized by their summer sojourns, retailers dove into New York Fashion Week with more gusto and surfaced with a renewed outlook about the designer scene.

And let’s face it, the luxury business has been a bit of a slog since the pandemic shutdown. U.S. consumers spent 11 percent less on luxury goods than they had in July compared to the same selling period last year, according to a Citi Research report. LVMH, Kering and Burberry have each been impacted by the luxury slowdown. Inflation in Europe, increasingly price-sensitive shoppers Stateside, fast-fashion knockoffs and the economic downturn in China have factored into the situation.

Despite that, several retail executives spoke enthusiastically about the latest round of New York Fashion Week, which got a major upgrade from Pieter Mulier’s Alaïa show at the Guggenheim Museum. Khaite‘s Catherine Holstein continued her reign among numerous adoring retailers and must-have shoppers. Even a Saturday afternoon downpour could not deter the 10 umbrella-less shoppers who had lined up outside of Khaite’s Mercer Street store. Proenza Schouler‘s Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez also carried forward the momentum behind their brand. Wes Gordon’s repertoire for Carolina Herrera earned much praise too, as did the show’s Janet Jackson soundtrack. Despite some grousing from editors and stores about the hours-long trek to Ralph Lauren’s show in the Hamptons, their takeaways were memorable.

Kate Benson, buying director at Net-a-porter, described the season as “full of energy and buzz” due to the collision of NYFW, the U.S. Open and the design fair Collectible New York. “The city firmly kicked off fashion month with power, and showcased what a hub of creative worlds colliding really is.”

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office, director of women’s fashion and store presentation, Bergdorf Goodman

Mood: There was patriotic reflection in the air under the brilliant blue skies this week. There were proposals and affirmations of what American fashion stands for. It’s apparent that ease itself is a luxury and a spirit of dressing which American designers are particularly good at. 

Favorite collections: Pieter Mulier’s tribute to modernist American designers like Halston and Pauline Trigere in his sensuous architectural tour de force collection for Alaïa. Ralph Lauren staged a lush and cinematic homage to American style at a working stable in the Hamptons; Proenza Schouler’s ease and modernity. Monse painted the chairs red, white and blue, and sent down abstractions on rugbys and stripes, and feminized workwear. Willy Chavarria ignited the audience with his “Amèrica” collection. Phillip Lim’s referential 20th anniversary collection with innovations from his career, like utility and masculine feminine hybrids. Wes Gordon’s strong proportions, large rosettes and crisp unapologetic beauty. American sportswear at its ultimate luxe and ease was on view at Brandon Maxwell. The beauty-meets-utility pieces, transparent jackets and the fine-gauge clingy knits were standouts. It’s encouraging and exciting to see the new guard talent continue to thrive and get better with each season. Applause for Diotima, Zankov, Willy Chavarria, Grace Ling, and Wiederhoeft.

Key trends: Breezy, transparent layering; utilitarian elements; movement; fringe, fresh whites and creams; painterly prints; nautical vibes; fine-gauge clingy knits; sequins; paillettes; crochet and heavy lace; pale pastels and black and white. Bandeaus and midriffs, light-as-air pencil skirts, slipdresses. Shoes were all about ease of movement — mid-heels, flats, skinny thin sandals. 

Jodi Kahn, vice president, luxury fashion, Neiman Marcus

Mood: Beautiful September sunshine making fashion’s “New Year” feel even more optimistic. With Proenza Schouler and Ralph Lauren sneaking in strong shows before the official start, the bar was set high. The week felt celebratory due in part to several American brands hitting significant milestones including 10 years of Area, 20 years of Phillip Lim and 25 at Ulla Johnson. A new guard also securely established themselves as power players. That optimism happily spilled over into the product, with lots of floral embellishment, fringe, and fresh color.

Favorite collections: Alaïa for the color palette, textures, play on proportions, gold chain necklaces and new shoe and handbag styles; the happy, energized and textured Ulla Johnson collection; the softer side of Khaite with Cate Holstein moving her aesthetic forward while still leaning towards her edgy consumer but with a more experimental approach. Ralph Lauren’s serene optimism with a collection hitting every Ralph signature.

Key trends: Sheer fabrics as seen at Khaite and Brandon Maxwell; fringe details for movement and texture as seen at Proenza Schouler and Ralph; pastel colors as seen at Ulla Johnson; floral appliqué and 3D lace as seen at Simkhai and Michael Kors. Embellishments as seen at Carolina Herrera and Jonathan Cohen. Crochet and open-knit styles, as seen at Alaia and Diotima.

Was there enough newness to perk up the designer business?  There was absolutely great newness this week. The energy at Zankov, Diotima, PH5 and Willy Chavarria are proof that the future of American fashion is in very talented hands.

Roopal Patel, Saks Fifth Avenue senior vice president, fashion director

Mood: The CFDA and Vogue rallied the fashion world for the Fashion for Our Future march. There was a real sense of community, with Americana being at the center — and the designers delivered. You could feel this energy at many shows. There was so much discovery this week with the CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund finalists showing their collections, some for the first time such as 5000, Grace Ling, Wiederhoeft, Kate Barton, Jane Wade, L’Enchanteur, Presley Oldham, Sebastien Ami, Phipps and Connor McKnight.

Favorite collections: Ralph Lauren for his iconic American style and all-inclusive runway at Khalily Stables in Bridgehampton; Pieter Mulier’s debut collection for Alaïa; Toteme’s effortless, minimal chic collection: Khaite’s softer, warmer and lighter looks with hand-woven crochet knits and skirts; Proenza Schouler’s “great everyday fashion” including playful nautical-stripe fringe dresses, sailor pants with fitted jackets, and soft pastel fringe gowns. Wes Gordon for Carolina Herrera playful and whimsical collection. Aisling Camp’s luxe knit collection at Raise Fashion’s designer collective was a standout.

April Hennig, Moda Operandi’s chief merchant

Mood: The mood was amazing. Overall, the collections feel strong and forward-thinking, designers are striking a great balance between sensibility and evolution, and emerging brands bring excitement. Some of the best clothes we’ve seen speak to both daily needs and big-picture desires. At several shows (Alaïa and Ralph Lauren) the setting (The Guggenheim and the Hamptons, respectively) informed the collection.

Favorite collections: Alaïa’s texture and proportion; Khaite going more experimental while delivering fresh updates to its most-wanted styles; Diotima’s Rachel Scott expanded her visual vocabulary to include new weaving and embroidery techniques — the buzziest presentation of the week; Carolina Herrera’s polished houndstooth suiting and sophisticated florals; Brandon Maxwell’s pairing romantic evening looks with just-rugged-enough outerwear; Proenza Schouler’s play on nautical elements like sailor pants and stripes without leaning on cliches; Simkhai’s nostalgic point of reference (his mother’s wedding dress) and made it entirely contemporary, with an artful twist. Toteme nailed the trifecta — wearable, effortless and cool. 

Key trends: Quiet luxury on the back burner, as many brands embrace a more playful approach; clashing concepts, like nautical meets organic, boho meets utility, and sport meets fantasy; intriguing, not-too-precious embellishments on structured garments; embroidery; sheer fabrics; stripes, and opulent textures.

Was there enough newness to perk up the designer business? Right now most people are buying investment pieces that will carry them through many different aspects of their lives. While newness is always welcomed, in an uncertain moment, customers want to build upon a timeless wardrobe, and we feel that New York designers are answering that call by leaning less into concept and more into wearability.

Rickie De Sole, Nordstrom fashion director

Mood: Alaïa’s Guggenheim show to Off-White’s sparkling, sunny gathering at Brooklyn Bridge Park, and Phillip Lim’s joyful 20th anniversary, creating a celebratory and upbeat mood. The schedule brimmed with events. Embracing the next generation of talent, it was great to see Tanner Fletcher, Diotima, Luar, Meruert Tolegen, Zankov, Ekhaus Latta, and more shine with inventive and energetic presentations.

Favorite collections:  Alaïa, Khaite, Proenza Schouler, Willy Chavarria, Diotima, Carolina Herrera, Toteme.

Key trends: Sporty, elegant ease paired with unmistakable refinement; play on textures; sheer layers and organza for a delicate touch; jumbo stripes; white dresses with the blend of craftsmanship with modern style; elevated thong sandals.

Was there enough newness to perk up the designer business? The palpable energy from New York’s shows signals a robust future for American fashion. With established designers reigniting their brands and emerging talents showcasing their ingenuity, there’s a clear message that creativity and innovation continue to be the driving forces behind our vibrant designer business.

Janelle Lloyd, Bloomingdale’s ready-to-wear fashion director

Mood: Buzzier than seasons past — NYFW might just be back. Bloomingdale’s From Italy, With Love kickoff party was a great start to an exciting week filled with several dynamic dinners and parties in addition to the shows and presentations. More intimate show settings made for a communal feeling; the “back-to-school” energy was palpable. On the runways, new and sometimes experimental silhouettes gave a forward-looking feeling. Forget florals — there were groundbreaking ideas this season that left me excited. 

Favorite collections: Brandon Maxwell’s balance of femininely and utility; Carolina Herrera’s sexy yet sophisticated styles; 3.1 Phillip Lim’s stream of cool girl silhouettes; Alaïa’s textural translation of sport; Khaite’s experimental maximalism after seasons of subversive classics. 

Key trends: Sheerness in every form; subtle, athletic influences; lace and lingerie-inspired details; fringe accents; black and white, and sherbet tones

What was missing from the week? Size diversity among model casting.

Was there enough newness to perk up the designer business? With transitional jackets at Brandon Maxwell, TWP’s fresh take on wardrobe staples and even the more casual playsuits at Carolina Herrera, there were plenty of fresh and versatile pieces that will invite the Bloomingdale’s customer to indulge while offering practicality for her everyday life.

Joseph Tang, fashion director, Holt Renfrew

Mood: With brands showing off-schedule and in very special locations, the energy in New York was invigorating. The week spotlighted American designers who have established leading voices in fashion, but most importantly gave space to celebrate the emerging design talent. What we loved most was also off the runways, with warm, expressive fashion enthusiasts, experts, and insiders reuniting almost like the first day of school. 

Favorite collections: Khaite, Alaïa, Proenza, Toteme, Ulla Johnson

Key trends: Athletic-inspired sport influences seen through technical fabrications and functional ready-to-wear pieces; a starkness with structured and boxy jackets in leather and raw denim juxtaposed with fragile pastel lace dresses or tops with sheer overlays.

What was missing: A handful of designers including Helmut Lang and Thom Browne. While we didn’t get to see a runway collection in New York, we look forward to curating the collections in the showrooms.  

Was there enough newness? Alaïa really set the tone for what we hope to see from the international design houses in the next four weeks. It was a clear, brand point of view and a collection designed to inspire and propel our customers to covet something new. Our favorites from New York delivered.

Richard Johnson, Mytheresa’s chief commercial officer

Mood: New York feels invigorated. The addition of Alaïa and Toteme to the calendar brought a fresh sense of energy, infusing the city with a new vibrancy. There’s an exciting buzz around the brands that are central to New York’s fashion scene.

Favorite collections: Alaïa – simply breathtaking. The craftsmanship was beyond beautiful. Khaite was outstanding, the collection exuded a softness we’ve come to expect from the brand. Alaïa’s intimate show at the Guggenheim was unforgettable — a perfect blend of artistry and setting. Grace Ling is a name to watch. Her collection was sophisticated, showing impressive development and strong momentum.

Key trends: Sheer fabrics; pastel color palettes paired with a sense of fluidity; intricate details yet there’s an effortless wearability to the designs; textures; draping; strong, statement-making pieces adding a twist to everyday wardrobe essentials.

Beth Buccini, owner and founder of Kirna Zabête

Mood of the week: It was a great week in New York. It felt deeper, more authentic, and more full of joy than we’ve seen for a while. Those who showed or did presentations seemed to have a real purpose and messaging they wanted to share and were successful in doing so.

Favorite collections: Alaïa, Khaite, Carolina Herrera, Proenza Schouler. Pieter Mulier brought the gravitas to New York with his masterful collection that managed to feel both so Alaïa and so modern. Khaite masters downtown cool. Wes Gordon’s Carolina Herrera is pure joy. Proenza Schouler was strong and confident with novelty striping and carwash hems. 

Key trends: Sheer is definitely still trending. There is a new added softness with lots of silk charmeuse and a palette of butter yellows and pale pinks. Fringing is still around. Strappy kitten heels are everywhere. 

Was there enough newness to perk up the designer business? It was great to see first-ever shows from both Maria McManus and TWP. We are growing big businesses with both brands.

Was your open-to-buy up, down or flat? We are up. We’ve added more stores and are growing our e-commerce business. 

Astrid Boutrot, women’s buying and fashion director, The Webster

Mood: The vibe was really good and optimistic. Everyone seemed to have that homecoming, joyful feeling to be back in New York. We were happy to see that clients were back as well after spending months in Europe. There is no better place to be in September than New York.

Favorite collections: Alaïa, Khaite, and Diotima. It was such a special moment to witness Alaïa returning to New York in such a historical manner.

Key trends: New neutrals and lightness — blues, pale pink, and butter yellow; elevated bags.

What was missing from the week? My only wish was that Proenza Schouler had shown during the fashion week calendar so I could have attended the show. It was so strong and exciting to see the brand’s growth.

Was there enough newness to perk up the designer business? I really appreciate that NYFW has become a destination for us to explore new and rising talent.   

 Is your open-to-buy up, down or flat? Our OTB is flat for our existing stores and online. However, as we are opening four more stores in the next six months — in Atlanta, Las Vegas, Austin and Dallas — we are increasing our overall budget. Budgets will reflect business and meeting the needs to support 14 locations and online.

Lauren Amos, founder of ANT/DOTE

Mood: Ambitious and positive, with a powerful sense of meaning.

Favorite collections: Willy Chavarria for his earnest display of love for his community and a sense of play and humor. With Alaïa, it’s hard to separate the experience of the show at the Guggenheim Musueum from the clothing, as the references drawn from Frank Lloyd Wright’s iconic architecture played such a central role, whether in the cascading dresses, or in the almost futurist spiraling 3D printed closures of dresses and outerwear.

Key trends: Innovative texture like Alaïa’s hand-crocheted coats and intricate metal chain designs brought a tactile dimension; fringe; ruffles; ruching.

What was missing from the week? Not much — this was my first New York Fashion Week in a long time and the energy this time was palpable. 

Was there was enough newness to perk up the designer business? Sales will tell, but I remain excited and optimistic for New York’s future in fashion. It feels there’s a significance to this season that goes beyond New York’s normal offering, especially considering Alaïa’s first-ever showing in New York, and the first runway show held in the Guggenheim.

Courtney Grant, vice president of buying for Elyse Walker

Mood: So exciting — we’re celebrating our 25th anniversary at Elyse Walker, so to celebrate with our industry friends during fashion week has been incredibly poignant.

Favorite collections: Alaïa and Khaite.

Key trends: Relaxed femme, volume, poplin, stripes and pinstripes, fringe, thong sandals, burgundy, rose and orchid.

What was missing from the week: More color.