Michael Kors hails rustic glamour with Olivia Wilde and Lindsay Lohan to close New York Fashion Week

Michael Kors brought New York Fashion Week to a starry close last night, with Lindsay Lohan, Kerry Washington, Mary J. Blige, Olivia Wilde and Suki Waterhouse propping up his front row. The chatter was all on the Harris Trump debate, which he curtailed his after party for. He’s dressed Harris before, which at a show preview he described as “a great honour” describing her bid for the world’s biggest gig as “a sea change”.

“She’s worn the clothes for many years” he offered, adding, “I met her a long time ago when she lived in San Francisco. I think that it’s very difficult for women in a political office to find the balance, especially if you love fashion. You know, if you love it too much, people will say something and if you don’t love it enough, they will say something.”

Kors’ latest collection takes the same pragmatic approach — it’s glamorous, but the sort of glamour you can actually live your life in. Capri and that classic Italian summer luxe is often a jumping off point for the Kors aesthetic, but for next spring he’s looking at the more rustic mood of Ischia and Stromboli with key influence from the heady, moody romance of the latest Netflix version of The Talented Mr Ripley. Fittingly the orchestral show soundtrack had a sinister undertone as his models snaked around giant volcanic rock like sculptures.

“I think we’re at a time where you want special things in your wardrobe, but you want things that last. It’s not about a dress you wear to a party once, it’s about the dress that you can wear over and over. It’s every day special” he posited.

He’s also marking 35 years of working with Italian factories, tailors and artisans and has sought ways to highlight that collaboration. Hence there’s plenty of raffia detail, hand-fringed hemmed onto cashmere jumpers, in soft knitted huggable clutch bags and hand embroidered into floral motifs on sweaters. Leather skirts are hand cut to imitate lace, denim is softened and elevated with hand embroidered flowers, crystals strewn onto evening coats intended to be worn both as a throw on to a casual outfit and for razzier occasions, too.

Slacks were in easy wide cropped cuffed cuts, paired with slouchy black blazers and pointed fisherman sandals. White shirts had stiff exaggerated collars, the crispness juxtaposed against elegantly crumpled parkas and trench coats. “Evening is not about a traditional red carpet Hollywood gown” mused Kors. “It’s either flat sandals and it feels very easy, or it has the attitude of a swimsuit and a skirt. I think unless you’re going on the red carpet in Cannes or to the Met Gala let’s stay with things that have an easiness. [It’s] quite honestly, very American. People want to be comfortable even at night, and I’ve always loved that.”

Best of the front row at Michael Kors SS25