Proenza Schouler kicks off spring collections in New York as Italian menswear also makes a splash

As students in at least eight U.S. states return to school this week, one item won’t be in their backpacks: cell phones, thanks to new ban laws. New York City Mayor Eric Adams recently conceded that the Big Apple wasn’t quite ready for the new practice. It begs one to ponder life without our fifth appendage in many sectors. As New York Fashion Week kicks off, it’s easy to imagine how a cell phone ban—and the social media they disperse—would derail the fashion sector and render the point of fashion shows today entirely.

Thus, it was refreshing to see a show that harkened back to fashion’s roots; media and fashion professionals in a stately but not over-decorated room watching a new collection’s debut to report on the season’s trends, influence buying decisions and, in general, keeping abreast of the industry as a professional.

Proenza Schouler delivered that on Wednesday morning with its Spring 2025 runway show while its natural light staging —down to the location in an 1894 New York Mercantile Exchange building—was paired back; for designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, the collection was the opposite of paired back.

“For the last three seasons, we were reducing and stripping things back; last season, it was to the core with a shirt and pants, so this time was about rebuilding and bringing in old codes and new ones,” said McCullough backstage to journalists. Hernandez added, “It was about re-owning them, making them ours again in that sense.”

Thus, to that end, highly conceptualized craft treatments, such as abstract, painterly garment printing, organza tubes filled with air as extreme fringe, feather embellished fabrics, and stripes, attributed to Barnett Newman.

The collection had a graphic by way of Maritime flair thanks to the stripes on knit dresses, which morphed into fringe, the crisp striped skirtings, and black and navy paired with white on sailor-style pants and jackets with buttons that trumped function for design interest.

Flaps, often asymmetrical, on the back of arms and shoulders created squared edges and demonstrated the shape-inspired element of the collection, which resembled a sail. According to McCollough, one cape-effect top was a rectangle with four arm holes wrapped around the body.

The button detail concept was evident in the use of straps, grommets, and buckle bits that served more to create interest than for garment operational purposes. Hernandez referred to it as a design ‘stream of consciousness.’ A particular trench-inspired top piqued the interest of several guests. The collection also exhibited a balance between commercial appeal and intriguing design.

Overall, there was a plethora of dresses that the designers alluded to being in reaction to last season’s suiting focus. Plisse pleated Grecian-inspired gowns, with open sides and belts creating peek-a-boo waistbands allured for the show finale, while feathered pieces paired with ‘glitchy’ prints offered another evening option.

According to Hernandez, accessories are still a strong focus of the brand. A sizeable transparent mesh tote called the Tate was worn carrying another bag style inside. Updating a new sneaker style worn with dresses reinforced the comfort shoe ethos. With oversized lug soles juxtaposed with dainty kitten heels, adorable embellished with marabou rounded out the walking-friendly footwear choices.
Starting the week two days ahead of the official calendar was driven by the duo’s desire to utilize the space that only accommodated 140 guests, thus requiring two shows and avoiding disrupting any of the other designers’ shows: a refreshing consideration.

The time slot was also an unusual move. “It’s the first time in 12 years that we showed in the morning,” noted McCullough. It also added to the ‘back-to-fashion-school’ mood.

Hernandez said it was also a way to capture the natural beauty of the Gilded Age building. “The space has no runway lighting, and the light is amazing at 10:30 in the morning. That is why we did it at this time and day, and we knew the weather would be amazing.”

Uptown, another ode to the glorious late 1900s, played out in a couple of Upper East Side mansions where two prominent Italian designers showed their latest menswear offerings. In a unique pairing, Giorgio Armani X Kith unveiled its collaboration, which marks the first time the legendary Italian designer has paired up with another menswear brand. A smart move considering the brand’s current fascination with Gen Z and the influence of the edgy streetwear brand founded by Ronnie Fieg.

The collection, displayed over three floors at Townhouse on East 80th and decked out in Armani Casa, broke down the collection into four archetypes of men: the artist, the entertainer, the traveler, and the entrepreneur embodied in the campaign for the new collection by Martin Scorsese, Lakeith Stanfield, Pierce Brosnan, and Fieg himself. Scorsese, the quintessential New Yorker, kicks off the first campaign with the subsequent talents to roll out campaigns in London, Milan, and Shanghai in the coming weeks.

To be expected, the collaboration boasts the best of both worlds: Armani’s impeccable tailoring and lush textiles – how about a 7-ply cashmere hoodie? Or streetwear staples such as jerseys, velour tracksuits, and buckets made with the most luxurious fabrics.

Further uptown, Zegna debuted the New York leg of its experiential space ‘Ville Zegna’ in an ode to founder Ermenegildo. ‘The Legend of Il Conte’ highlights the then-Italian fabric manufacturer’s first trip to New York in 1938.

Doused with original memorabilia on loan from the family’s villa, the Carnegie Hill Neo-Renaissance mansion was designed to take visitors, including press, KOLs, and VIP clientele, on a journey to discover Zegna’s roots. Following the artifacts, visitors enter a dark room to watch a sensory overload video depicting the ecological origins of Zegna, its impact on the mountainous region of ‘Oasi Zegna’, and its commitment to building the region’s infrastructure.

Also on display was the brand’s Spring/Summer 2025 collection, which was shown earlier this year. The project, which will visit additional to be announced cities, grew out of the brand’s book release earlier this year at Salone Mobile.