The most memorable shows at New York Fashion Week 2024, from Coach to Tory Burch

While other US labels of global scope such as Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford and Marc Jacobs were no-shows, New York Fashion Week delivered what it is best at: solid ready-to-wear that may not please editors looking for directional clothes, but will certainly find favour with department store buyers, especially at a time when top luxury brands are cutting down on wholesale distribution.

Steven Kolb, chief executive of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), believes that the strength of New York Fashion Week lies in this mix of young and established talent. “When you have more established brands mixed with younger ones, they feed off each other and that increases the strength of American fashion,” says Kolb.

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While the entertainment value of the celebrity-filled European shows was lacking in New York, it was quite refreshing to see runway presentations that highlighted actual clothes rather than star-studded front rows.

Here are our highlights from the shows …

Khaite

It was likely a coincidence that the Proenza Schouler and Khaite shows took place on the same day. But Khaite has become what Proenza, as it’s known among insiders, used to be a decade ago: the go-to label for girls who want to look cool without trying too hard. Female fashion lovers always rave about the label’s chic separates and accessories such as its bestselling belts.

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Expectations were high as founder Catherine Holstein was named American Womenswear Designer of the Year at the CFDA Awards in 2023. Filled with killer looks, the show was a masterclass in the art of draping, but also offered versatile leather separates, sharp tailoring and some outstanding fur coats. Holstein is the rare designer who’s able to please both novelty-hungry editors and no-nonsense customers.

Altuzarra

Joseph Altuzarra’s show, which took place on a chilly Sunday morning in the historic Woolworth Building in downtown Manhattan, was a chic, intimate affair and the perfect setting for his elegant creations. Altuzarra has always designed with his loyal customers in mind: think beautifully cut clothes for grown-up, confident women who want to look well put together, but are also not afraid to be sexy.

Ludovic de Saint Sernin

The French designer is the Rick Owens of his generation. While their aesthetics couldn’t be more different, de Saint Sernin, much like the Paris-based American designer, has built a cult following that almost borders on obsession. His barely there clothes tend to expose flesh rather than cover it, and have a sensual appeal that never veers towards the vulgar.

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This was his first show in New York, as he normally presents his collections in Paris. He stayed true to his tested formula of lingerie-inspired frocks for the ladies, shrunken, cropped tops for the boys, and lots of underwear with bondage undertones for everyone in between. The designer moved his show to New York because of a collaboration with the Robert Mapplethorpe Foundation. The late artist, known for his black and white photos of naked men, was a key player on the New York art scene in the 70s and 80s, and has long been an inspiration for de Saint Sernin.

Coach

The American leather goods house was another brand that celebrated New York in all its glory – sometimes quite literally. Bags came with apple-shaped charms, “I love NY” mugs, yellow cab key rings and NY Yankees baseball caps, while models wore Statue of Liberty earrings, among the many fun and whimsical touches.

While that all might sound a bit over the top and gimmicky, it was far from it. With its sombre palette, heavy layering and androgynous style, the collection had a romantic and slightly nostalgic vibe while still reflecting what young people want to wear today.

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Tory Burch

Designer Tory Burch, who this year is celebrating the 20th anniversary of her eponymous brand, has always been associated with a classic East Coast sensibility that often came at the expense of strong fashion statements.

In recent seasons, however, she has started to bring a more fashion-forward approach to her designs while still staying true to the DNA of her brand, which is still known for its bestselling bags and shoes emblazoned with her signature golden logo.

For autumn/winter 2024, Burch highlighted volume and silhouette with a focus on strong, angular shapes, fuzzy materials with unusual textures and a series of hoodies paired with pencil skirts that looked super chic.

Thom Browne

Held at The Shed, a performing arts centre on the west side of Manhattan, the show was as extravagant as you would expect from Browne. The designer recreated a snow-covered fairy tale land populated by children, witches, black bare trees and ravens. The birds were a recurring motif and also appeared as patterns on gargantuan coats and as headpieces. A reading of The Raven, a poem by 19th-century writer Edgar Allan Poe, played during the show.

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Browne can indulge in his flights of fancy on the runway thanks to his commercial success. His shrunken suits, hoodies, cardigans and socks are the bread and butter of his business. He has a very loyal customer base, who will certainly find plenty to buy from this collection once these showpieces are translated into commercial items that stay true to his preppy aesthetic.