Toteme Spring 2025 Collection Brings Sublime Simplicity to New York Fashion Week

Shown first thing Tuesday morning in an empty office space on 58th Street, with a view of all of New York City from the East River to the Hudson and Central Park in between, the Toteme spring 2025 collection was a covetable city uniform in black and white to live in day to night.

Take as an example the understated chic of a black blazer with lapels edged in eyelash fringe, over an ecru drapey slightly sheer tank top and crisp white cotton pants, or the black suede coat with a whisper of white tulle peeking out from the hem to soften the edges.

“Sublime” was how Michelle Williams described it after sitting front row with stylist Kate Young —emissaries for the Hollywood contingent who love the brand.

“New York for us is so special because we met in New York, we started our company in New York and it’s really the town that brings us energy,” Toteme cofounder Karl Lindman said backstage of why the Stockholm-based label was returning to the city where it began in 2014.

The U.S. is also currently the largest market for Toteme, which is expanding retail and opened a Madison Avenue boutique this week, its second in New York. It’s a full-circle moment for the collection that mixes a European and American sensibility, or “Upper East Side ladies with the Scandinavian minimalist language,” as cofounder Elin Kling has said to me before.

“Pacey” is the word Kling used to describe spring, which was designed to beat the heat with sporty touches such as sheer and layerable knits; open-sleeve sweaters over tanks, and a white compact knit T-shirt over a lovely tulle maxiskirt with twisted bubble hem.

She was also interested in exploring subtle bohemian tendencies, with the brand’s signature monogram pajamas taking inspiration this season from lacy Swedish tablecloths, a sheer black sundress and pleated cape with delicate floral embroidery. The designers paid special attention to evening looks, opening up more celebrity dressing opportunities with a standout cream shift dress with floating side strap details, and a black tunic over cigarette pants with a shawl worn gracefully in reverse, with the ends behind.

Toteme launched bags two years ago with their popular T-lock group, and added an elegant new scooped bag with wristlet strap, and Lounge tote with belted detail, which looked fab in suede. Jewelry is also a growing category for the $150 million brand, with new tear-drop pendant necklaces with onyx and marble stones. All of it was assuredly stylish, and quietly so — proof that fashion minimalism still has mileage.

For more New York spring 2025 reviews, click here.