Vogue’s Five-Minute Fashion Month Debrief: New York SS25 Edition

Stuart Vevers continued Coach’s own exploration of classic US archetypes after last season’s trinket-heavy edit adorned with taxi cab, Statue of Liberty and Big Apple keyrings. The opening look that proved tourist merch sells? An I Heart NY tee teamed with a navy blazer, slacks and scuffed-up sneakers. A new version of a 1969 Bonnie Cashin bag showed Vevers is bang on the money by cashing in on the vintage Coach revival spawned by TikTok. Tory Burch, too, made a nostalgia play with the relaunch of her Reva ballet flat – an accessory as synonymous with the brand as Burch is with New York Fashion Week.

Ralph Lauren SS25.

Photographed by Emily Malan

Off-White SS25.

Photographed by Hunter Abrams

Burch, who converted the old Domino Sugar Factory into an aqua-tiled swimming pool to showcase her sports-luxe edit of jersey dresses, bathing suit-cum-tank tops and streamlined tailoring, was just one of a handful of designers who’d been struck by Olympic fever this season. The standout athletic moment came, of course, via Willy Chavarría, who collaborated with Adidas on a trainer-led capsule inspired by NBA player Kareem Abdul-Jabbar. Despite the major backing of a sportswear behemoth – a lifeline for countless labels – Chavarría made sure the emphasis was on the labourers and workers movements that had inspired his mainline collection created during a difficult time in US history. “It’s this country through the voice of the immigrants, and the people who make this motherf*cker run,” he clarified, while standing underneath a ginormous American flag in the middle of Wall Street.

Coach SS25.

Photographed by Acielle / Style Du Monde

Collina Strada SS25.

Photographed by Hunter Abrams

Equally energetic? The model who somersaulted down Collina Strada’s makeshift runway in a small private park in the East Village while chucking grass at Paramore’s Hayley Williams. “There’s a lot of chaotic energy with everything that’s happening on the planet and the election,” said founder Hillary Taymour, who transported show-goers into a safe jazz-filled haven for a brief moment. Her ruffled, romantic, asymmetric pastel-coloured clothes were easy to get lost in. Ditto the whispers of muted, cut-out garments modelled by the industry’s great and good at Eckhaus Latta’s dinner-turned-show.